Hello people!
We went to the Amish stands for corn and Candy onions, decided to continue on and visit Volant. Have not been there for a long while. James Creek and a favorite kitchen shop left years ago and there aren't many shops I wish to see now. An antique store is where we usually enjoy browsing, and I found a basket there that was very reasonable. Damage to one corner, this is the painted/dyed very stiff weave that I remember from years ago. No idea what the center handle is for but liked the odd style, close to 3' in width, $20 was a great price.
Now for the question I have been meaning to ask for months. What length are your threads? I've seen many flosstubes mentioning 18". Really? Doesn't it shred more easily from the number of times in and out of fabric? I use 9" or 12"!! Does anyone use those lengths? What is your favorite?
Mark made two winders for me, one at 6" for one cut, and the other at 9" for two cuts. I have never used silk, no idea how so many pokes and pulls would affect it. But cotton DMC still shreds on its end using 12" so I must be doing something wrong.
Please let me know your preference and why, have not heard this addressed on the videos. Thanks!
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10 comments:
Volant is on our list of things to do. Have you tried Georgetown Eats on the Georgetown Road? It was recommended to us. I really miss James Creek; I bought a beautiful plate when we visited there the day after we got married. It was always worth the drive to Volant just to visit James Creek.
What an unusual basket! It looks like it's made to hang on a wall? Maybe the center handle is for if it needs to be carried somewhere? The pear wood is gorgeous as is, IMHO.
Floss length... I have no solid answer. If stitching a large area and using 2 threads, I cut it somewhere between 24-36" long, so 12-18" when doubled. If using single thread, I cut it about 12-18". I cut shorter lengths when stitching smaller isolated areas though.
I haven't noticed the DMC ends shredding much, maybe the last 1/2-ish inch. It looks more like coming unspun than shredding. I'd think that's normal since there's nothing to keep the ends together, unless a small spot of something like a no-fray product were used. Then you might have a whole different set of problems from that hard end bit of floss. Or maybe the holes in the linen are too small for the floss? Would using a next size larger needle make the linen holes a bit larger so the floss has more room, less friction??? No real idea this early in the day before coffee.
I've rarely used silk, what I do remember is my rough dry hands being harder on it than the pulling through linen.
I sent you an email about your sewing machine a bit ago.
That wood pear is a beauty, Marly. I tend to use 24 to 30 lengths because I double over and use the loop method. Eventually, the cut ends shred or fuzz. I just give them a snip and continue to stitch. I'm sure some of the "cross stitch police" would cringe. There are some threads (like Classic Colorworks, Sulky and some of the silks) that get cut in shorter lengths.
Hello Marly: I love going to Amish areas and Quaker stands, its such a shame so many that I like as you are no longer in business, I have seen photos of the handle on the basket, I believe it is held on your forearm and you pick fruits and veggies to put in the basket hold, the flat side stays against your hip or stomach.
I love the pear, I am looking forward to seeing your expertise on how you finish it.
I am a 10-inch threader, you are right the threads do shred or thin when using a longer thread.
Catherine
I love the basket & pear! I've slowly been converting my DMC skeins to floss drops. I unwound one full skein, matched up the ends so the skein was halved, and kept folding in half until the length was 16-18 inches. There has been a slight variance between skeins, but 16-18 inches has been the range on all the skeins I've done so far. For me, that is also the length I typically cut to stitch with. I usually get some shredding on the end of the thread, but that is usually my discarded end anyway. I have noticed stiffer fabrics cause more floss shredding and use shorter floss lengths.
Great basket!!! My guess is the center handle is more of a support so the center of the basket doesn't sag.
Happy Labor Day Weekend to you and Mark ;-)
What treasures you have found Marly. I love the basket and pear.
A 12” length is about right for me. Too long and I just get knots and tangles.
Margaret
It's a beautiful basket Marly as is the wooden pear.I think it is a pity to paint the pear and it is more beautiful when you put some oil on the wood.
In a Flosstube I heard a stitcher saying that the length of the thread should be as long as the length of your hand till your elbow...don't know how much that will be in inches,but wil also different for everyone.
Take care, Truus from Holland
I am not remotely familiar with the places you mentioned, but love the basket treasure you came home with. As for floss....I do not typically cut my dmc before hand. I wrap it on a cardboard winder I roughly cut out and put it on my thread drop, but since I do punch needle and sometimes I use dmc for that, I don't want it cut in short lengths. (I also do the same with whatever overdyed floss that does not come precut as I don't know whether I will be using 2 strands or 1 and obviously use longer strands for when I use 2. (I never cut my silks as I don't use them for punching and rarely using them as 2 strands.) So, with the dmc and other uncut overdyeds, I just cut as I go into willy nilly lengths depending on the project I am working on (1 or 2 strands). And I usually cut and use really long strands (for which I have been chastised) but I have never ever hand an issue with shredding?? Whew...that was a long answer. ~Robin~
Love both the basket and the pear - great finds! Thread length for me depends on the area to be stitched. Short lengths for small areas...much longer (24" plus) for large areas. I have not noticed issues with fraying or anything. Sometimes I think the needles get rough and then I get rid of them and start with a new needle...no issues.
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