When I posted about how I detest stitching over one and the problems I had with the thread disappearing, Barbara (in England) was nice enough to offer her help. I've visited all the instructional links about thread directions and methods to prevent that but, to my dismay, the first half of the stitch continued to disappear or stitches would be very uneven. This is Barbara's method.
She uses a loose, lightweight piece of "muslin" tacked to the back of the over one section, or held in place if using a hoop. From what I've researched online, what is called muslin overseas, is equivalent to muslin gauze in the US. I am familiar with the tightly woven lightweight fabric. From what she pictured and explained, her muslin is loosely woven like a bandage, more like a gauze. I have a very old roll of fine cotton gauze banding which I could use and I also may try a piece of tulle after rinsing to remove the stiffness.
Stitching through a backing would help to keep the floss from slipping behind the linen threads. Would it prevent it completely and allow the stitcher to use their regular method instead of a cross pattern specifically for over one? In this example, Barbara had a small section of over one so she just pinned a piece of gauze over that area, which she said could also be tacked into place. With a hoop/frame, you could use a large piece of gauze secured with the linen and then cut away the excess after stitching that area.
Here's the front showing the completed over one section (a Jeannette Douglas design).
Barbara said she uses the backing for smalls and ornaments because she feels the stitches lie better. I would think this would help a great deal with tension issues and give a little body and stability to smalls and lightweight linens.
Barbara said she uses the backing for smalls and ornaments because she feels the stitches lie better. I would think this would help a great deal with tension issues and give a little body and stability to smalls and lightweight linens.
I wondered if products like the stabilizers used in embroidery would work, but anything that is fused may be difficult to get a needle through because of the glue involved.
Barbara said she can't claim credit for this method because it is commonly used and frequently taught in England. I'm so glad she offered her help because I've never heard of this tip and it may be the answer to my trouble.
This framed beauty is one of Barbara's large samplers, another superb class project from Ellen Chester.
So there you have it! Have any of you used this trick? Did it make a difference in how easily you could stitch the over one areas? I have many rejected charts because of over one, maybe that will change now.
Thank you very much Barbara!! I love getting advice and tips from advanced stitchers like you and appreciate you sharing your expertise.
Have a great weekend!
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17 comments:
I'm thinking the gauze may be the best method of stabilizing over one stitches. I do a little bit of machine embroidery and I can't think of any stabilizer that would be superior. The iron-downs, definitely not. The tear-away may be ok, but I would worry more about the tearing away part...over 1 stitches are so fine that I'm afraid tearing a stabilizer away would distort the stitches. The stabilizers designed to dissolve in water....ummm, I don't usually subject my needlework to a soak in water. At least with loosely woven gauze, one can pick out the gauze threads.
Never thought of it for cross stitch, but when I do my hand embroidery I always use the very light interfacing as a backing (not the fusible) and it certainly helps keep my stitches where I need them to be.
Wonderful idea! I avoid over-1 like the plague, but I intend to try this method (if I ever get my stitching mojo back, that is).
Thanks to both of you for sharing. :)
This Englishwoman has never heard of that tip, but I love it! I do a lot of over one stitching and simply change the direction of the bottom leg of my stitch to avoid the slipping issue.
I haven't been formally taught though and have never belonged to a guild or group of experienced sampler stitchers so I won't dispute her saying it's widely taught here. I just haven't met the right people yet!
I avoid it like the plague too... If it's in a pattern, I just don't buy it! But that was nice of Barbara to share with you!
Let us know if this works for you.
Happy Friday!
Hugs :)
Lauren
How great of both of you to share this tip. Thanks
I routinely use light weight muslin under any fabric that I consider "swishy". If you can easily turn a square into a parallelogram, it is probably swishy fabric. I buy the cheapest muslin at Joann's that is really thin. (99 cents a yard!) It does the job perfectly.
Wow...that's a great tip, Marly! I don't stitch over one very often, but I hate it. My thread disappears too! We learn something new everyday! Thank for posting!
I agree with Jo. Just change the direction of the bottom leg of your stitch to "pull" the stitch evenly. Oh, and always start your stitch over a vertical thread.
I always start in the upper right corner with a vertical thread on the left, go down to the bottom left, then under to the bottom right, then finish the stitch going down on the upper left. Clear as mud I am sure, but it makes a perfect stitch every time.
This is a great tip! I agree with the commenter who said that the stabilizers used for machine embroidery would not work, even the lightest ones. I think Barbara's method is best. Definitely going to try this.
Well worth a try as I too, hate the over one stitch. I know just what you mean about the stitches disappearing.
This is a game changer for me! Thank you so much for posting!
Thanks for sharing! I will certainly try this!
Thanks for sharing this method --never heard of.
Like Majorie I make my stitches over one in that way and never have troubles with them.
Have a great weekend
Greetings Truus from Holland
I've never tried that method. It seems to me that it would make the piece bulkier. My method for stitching over one is pretty simple. I make each 'x' before moving to the next. I look at the fabric and see whether the horizontal thread that I am going to stitch across is over or under the vertical thread. If my horizontal thread is over the vertical thread, I do the stitch in what is for me the normal 1-2-4-3 stitch, if the horizontal thread us under the vertical thread I stitch a-2-3-4
3 2
1 4
It sounds more complicated than it is. I just get into a rhythm and I can stitch rather quickly.
I've not down it on a cross stitch piece but do in embroidery all the time. There's a very fine, thin fusible at most fabric stores that works well. I think it's a Pellon but I'm not sure. it's very "drape-able" and isn't stiff at all. blessings, marlene
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