Wallets part 2

#4  Amy Mitten adapted her Ann Wade 1772 sampler into a Needleworker's Pocketbook.
Amy's website is https://www.amymitten.com/
Ann Wade's tutorial is https://www.amymitten.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=25_73

This was on online class using 32 count Lambswool linen, Fibers to Dye For silk thread, silk ribbon and silk lining.  Stitches include buttonhole, eyelet, cross, tent and more.

 

*********************

#5  Mary Wright Alsop 1740-1829 is part of the extensive collections of Winterthur Museum and Gardens. All Queen Stitches, worked using 21 hues of silk thread on 32 count linen, glazed dusty rose colored inner cotton lining and silk ribbon

Kit is available from The Examplarery, Joanne Harvey

I think the queen (Rococo) stitch is a time consuming, detail oriented stitch.  It takes longer for me to do a single queen stitch than cross or tent stitches and some may find it hard to get into a rhythm, however, I love this stitch and the look of a wallet comprised entirely of queen.  Here is a look a the construction of a queen stitch - http://www.embroiderersguildvictoria.ca/education/stitch-of-the-month-2/april-2015-queen-stitch/

You can watch an interesting video entitiled "Who's your Daddy?" that features the works of Mary Alsop, toward the end.  The long purses or reticules look stitched, but they are actually knitted with the finest of needles.  Amazing work, one of the beautiful items was worked at age 74.  http://www.winterthur.org/Whos-Your-Daddy

 

*********************

#6  Flame Stitched Man's Wallet, Circa 1770.  This wallet appeared on a 2015 PBS Antiques Roadshow and I adapted and stitched this piece on 36 ct linen using Textile Reproduction (https://www.textilereproductions.com/) vegetable dyed wool thread and linen lining.  Both Bargello and tent stitches were used.

 

 

 

 **********************

 

#7  This is a wallet In Progress.  I'm adapting from the Winterthur Collection using 35 count Wichelt Antique Lambswool and Textile Reproduction vegetable dyed thread.  The entire wallet will be a repetition of 4 rows of green threads and 8 rows of red in various shades.  Finishing is yet to be determined.

Included is a picture of the actual Winterthur wallet.

 

 

********************

And of course, there is .... the ponies.

 

That's all folks! 

Hope you enjoyed seeing these reproduction needleworks.  

 

Thank you Ann for sharing your work and passion!

 

***********************

 

Wallet basics 101

I asked Ann to give us a little insight into the construction of her wallets.

Three layers (stitched piece, stiffening, and lining) appear to have twill tape folded over the edges and hand stitched.  Not all wallets have a divider, some are just one pocket.  Folding the bottom up and closing the sides to form the pocket, folding the top down and attaching a clasp or tie, seems like it is doable.  Sure it is.  Ann not only is an expert at this finishing, she uses appropriate material to create a period reproduction correct in every way.  I may try a very small pocket constructed more like I would for a lined needleroll, certainly nothing close to this caliber.  Sort of a cross between a primitive short needleroll and a wallet.  A needlet.  I'll put that on my list.  Wherever the hell it is.

 

From Ann ...

All of my wallets are hand stitched, both the actual design and the finishing.  Although I have used canvas and soft congress cloth a few times, I prefer Wichelt linen because it is a stiffer linen and, for me, easier to use.  The count I use (28 to 40 count) depends on the design and the size I would like to see in the finished piece.  My wallets are predominantly either Bargello, Queen, or tent stitches.

For my first attempt to stitch a wallet, I purchased a kit so I would receive the pattern and also the instructions/supplies for finishing the wallet.  Be sure that finishing instructions are included in the kit.

For finishing my reproduction wallets, my choices for supplies are the following:

Textile Reproductions, Kathleen B. Smith of Massachusetts
https://www.textilereproductions.com/collections
- Vegetable dyed wool lining
- Vegetable dyed 5/8" wide wool twill tape
Etsy - https://www.etsy.com/shop/TextileReproductions?ref=l2-shopheader-name

Buckram is an open-weave cotton or linen fabric with a resin/starch finish used for interlinings in garments and for stiffening in millinery.  Although available in many weights, for historic wallets, the light or medium weight seems to work best.  It is sometimes available at Hobby Lobby or JoAnn fabrics but in limited weights.  I order mine online at Online Fabric Store.
https://www.onlinefabricstore.net/hsearchresult.aspx/?keyword=buckram%20fabric


Silver or pewter clasps - I use cloak clasps
Patterns of Time
https://www.etsy.com/shop/patternsoftime?ref=l2-shopheader-name&sectionid=13332325&section_id=13332325
Twin Roses Designs
http://twinrosesdesigns.com/Cloak-Clasps-for-Sale.html

To see prior posts of Ann's finished wallets, visit these posts - WELL worth another look!

https://samplers-and-santas.blogspot.com/2014/01/anns-wallets.html

https://samplers-and-santas.blogspot.com/2015/06/anns-finished-wallets.html

John Storrs' wallet 1754

Two posts of Ann's latest wallets, next.

 

*******************

The Queen

Greetings folks.  How did the weekend go?  We had wonderful weather and it's finally warming up.  I can't believe how many people already have annuals planted and hanging baskets.  The stores have had them for some time.  I remember when Memorial Day was the big shopping day for flowers but just as all seasonal items, they are out sooner every year.  I feel pressured to get what I need before they are gone but I didn't even think about a plan or colors yet.  I'm still working on that damn paint that is pink in the day and green in the night.  My moods have me crabby in the day and giddy at night.  Hot flashes have diminished but when I do get them, the mood goes from cold to hot and back to cold just as my body does.  Is there such thing as a happy crab?

 

Not much done on Sally.  The chain stitch row that took me forever is off and I may take it out and just do a regular cross.  The rice alphabet is down one row and not rice - I did the regular cross - which made the row beneath also down one.  That's OK because there is enough space.  So I thought this would be a good time to show you Ann's latest wallet project and a little note from her about it.  By the way, Ellen Chester (With My Needle) called her wallet of 7000 queen stitches "not for the faint of heart" when she created this historical adaptation of her original antique. This photo is from Silver Needle and they are offering the chart with finishing instructions for half price ($8) on this page.
 Ann originally avoided this stitch like most of us, but thought maybe she could inspire a few of you to give it a try.  I know that several specialty stitches I imagined to be a nightmare, ended up being fun to do once I got my rhythm and a nice break from the usual cross.  As always, watching videos from Mary Corbet's Needle 'n Thread are a tremendous help.  Here's Ann....

 

 "In all my years of stitching I have always shied away from doing designs that contain the Queen stitch (also known as the Renaissance or Rococo stitch).  I like my needlework to be neat and orderly and the dilemma for me was what tension, if any, should I use.  Do I apply no tension, do I pull a little or a lot and is the same tension applied to each part of the stitch.  I found different instruction/suggestion based on the places I looked.  As a result,  my Queen stitches were crooked, uneven, slanted, and just out of whack.  However, I saw two designs that made my hesitation of doing this stitch turn to a desire to resolve my issues and just do it.  The designs are A Work'd Pocketbook, by Ellen Chester and Mary Alsop 1774 Pocketbook from the Examplarery, Joanne Harvey. 

I have both designs but chose to do Ellen's first.  I am lucky to know Ellen since we are both members of the Queen City Sampler Guild in Cincinnati, Ohio, and I have taken a class from her.  I will tell you her directions are outstanding and are precise, complete and so easy to follow. Perfect choice for my adventure.

Although I used Ellen's design, I decided, as I seem to often do, to change the colors from the ones in her design.  I am using 32 count Wichelt Lambswool fabric and Needlepoint Silk thread, which has become a favorite of mine. 

I began my stitching with very little tension but as I did a row or two, I wasn't sure that the look was what I wanted.  I began "playing" with the tension and found that a more "pulled" stitch appeared more appealing to me.  It could be that this is going to be a wallet and there will be soooo many queen stitches all touching each other, it could be my choice of colors for the threads, or possibly just the way I stitch; however, I'm liking the look with more tension.  

I thought I might tire of doing so many queens but I find that I'm as excited about this piece as any I've done....right now I'm just loving doing reproduction wallets.  

Thanks Marly for inviting me to be a tiny part of your blog." - Thank you Ann for sharing your projects. 

 

You can see in the photo how she changed tension as she moved along in the project.  My tension would not be visible through the flames. 

Ann has great boards on Pinterest (here) featuring wallets, huswifs, bags, pouches, books, caskets, and of course, her fabulous finished stitchery.  Some of the antiques in her wallet album are these, also done in queen stitch.

 

And my favorite which is a needlecase.

 

 

I'm sure she will share the finish of her wallet of 7000 queens.  I've never constructed these reproduction wallets, doubt if they are easy, but Ann has also accomplished that task with perfection. 

When your needlework interest is in early pieces and reproductions, you're tiring of samplers, try one of these projects for a change and challenge.  The sweet bags, wallets, huswifs, and other similar needlework may create a new interest and collection, and no wall space is needed!

 

Thanks again Ann.  Can't wait to see it completed and what the next project will be.

 

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Seething ...

definition … anger than can barely be contained.  My shock and flashback to The Blair Witch Project became seething rage, until I exploded with expletives that would make a rap star blush.  If that's possible. 

 

We know, have known, have friends with family members, that are addicts. Were any of them hooked because of a doctor, a pharmacy, or medical issues?  Not a freaking one.  I'm sure there are, but I do not believe that for the majority of young people.  Regardless.  Remember my nephew's girlfriend who stole my sister's wallet of several hundred dollars?  She knew my sister has a hard time financially and we need to help her.  Didn't matter. 

 

Carole went to dinner with friends Friday night, came home, changed clothes, and emptied the little Valentine gifts from her purse.  Following her routine, her keys and wallet went into their designated pockets and the purse was hung in its usual location. Saturday, Carole was in a panic thinking she left her purse at the restaurant, they said it was not turned in.  But how could she drive home, unlock the door, empty the candy and change, if her purse never made it home?  Impossible.  She has been tearing the house apart for five days, notified credit companies, bank, applied for replacement SS card, pacemaker ID, and AV node ablation cards, driver's license, registration, car insurance, new car key fob and house key.  What happened to her new purse?

 

Back up to a short period of time after she arrived home Friday evening.

Being hard of hearing, her TV is quite loud and sometimes, even with the noise, she will nod off for a minute or two.  Chris called to ask her if she wanted dinner from the club, he was coming home from the bocce court.  She unlocked the sliding patio door on the back porch for him.  He soon called again to tell her to lock the door because the neighbor texted him that a car was parked in her drive at the bottom of the hill.  So she did.  Vince (the neighbor) texted again to say that he went over to them in the darkness (with his gun) and approached the vehicle.  They had car problems and Vince being the good guy, helped them out and they went on their way. 

 

Today we installed a new kitchen faucet for her and as we drove down the steep drive and pulled away, Mark slammed on the brakes.  He looked at me in a strange way and said "I found her purse" as he pulled off the road and jumped out of the car.  What?  I got out and we stood in the middle of the road staring up into the trees, feeling like we were in a horror movie.  Can't explain the emotion, fear, shock, and uneasiness I felt.  There, hanging twenty feet in the air, was her purse.  Perfectly positioned with its long strap, hanging across from her house in the trees, the eeriest sight you can imagine.  Stunned, we drove back up the drive to tell her that those men came into her house while she was there, and stole her purse.  Mark needed a long pole and ladder to dislodge it. The wallet was emptied of the hundreds I gave her for the tooth extraction, all else intact.  Cash.  Cash.  No credit cards, no keys to steal the car, no bank cards, they only wanted cash.  Drugs.  Again.  I am sick and tired of making excuses, feeling sorry for, giving benefit of doubt, for people that steal from family, friends, strangers, elderly.

 

They were not having car trouble. They walked up the drive in the dark, on to her porch, found the door unlocked and entered.  Her purse was at that door and they would have been hidden behind the wall from where she was sitting IN THE NEXT ROOM.  As they left, they tossed the purse, how it got that high up I do not know.  It was visible from her window once Mark pointed it out, hanging so high among the limbs, it gave her shivers as if she saw a ghost.  I can't explain the ghastly unnerving feeling of seeing it there.

 

I've had it.  I will not trust a car broken down, I will no longer trust a person at my door, I will call police for anything I see. 

And my pistols are now loaded you sons of bitches.

 

***************************

Wallets

A note from Ann - A few of my wallets were stitched without a pattern, that I adapted from photos and information.  I use them for my personal use only and don't sell, profit or share any of my drawings.  I just want to be sure all understand that some are my interpretation and reproduction of originals I have seen photos of, and I do them just for the joy of stitching them.

 ************************

#1  ​This is my adaptation of a 1730-1780 Winterthur Pocketbook​ bequest of Henry Francis duPont.  I used the pictures/information they show online in their Collections section and transferred it to 28 ct linen.  I hand stitched the entire wallet with tent stitch using Textile Reproductions vegetable dyed wool thread, vegetable dyed linen lining and tape binding.

Tent stitch is a small diagonal stitch that crosses over the intersection of one horizontal (weft) and one vertical (warp) thread of linen or canvas forming a slanted stitch at a 45 degree angle.  This is a look at examples of the tent stitch  ...
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tent_stitch

​

************************

 

#2  This is an unfinished Bargello/flamestitch fragment that I adapted using my stash for completion so the colors aren't too exact.  Wool threads, mostly Paternayan, on 28 ct linen, with a leftover piece of vegetable dyed linen for the lining and a reproduction clasp for closure was used.  A picture of the original piece (Unfinished fragment) is shown below.

 

 

Bargello is a form of needlework utilizing vertical (straight up and down) stitches that move in a series of "steps" up, across and down the fabric to create a repetitive geometric design.  My favorite choice is 4 threads (steps) up and 2 thread (steps) down, repeated (Flamestitch).   If an alteration is made in the stitch length, step length, or number of stitches taken, the design will be altered, creating patterns such as peaks valleys, curves, diamonds, flames, bars, stripes, or latticework.  Tapestry needles are used for Bargello embroidery due to their blunt end and large eye.  The size of the needle will depend on the choice of fabric and thread used.  For cotton or silk threads a #22 or #24 will work if using 2 to 5 strands;, however, a #20-#22 would be better for wool thread since the larger eye will allow the wool to pass through easily.  For Bargello reference, visit Nuts About Needlepoint, Janet Perry.  http://nuts-about-needlepoint.com/

 

 

 

 

 

 

************************

 

#3  This design, 1810-1820 Florentine Wallet is a reproduction of a pocketbook in the Old Salem Collection of  Old Salem Museums & Gardens.  It is by Cissy Bailey Smith, Gentle Pursuit Designs and is available at  

https://www.gentlepursuitdesigns.com/store

 

 

I completed this Flamestitch wallet on 32 count linen using Needlepoint silk, silk lining, and pewter clasp  and made a small change to the front closure. 

************************
One more post with more wallets next.

 

 

 

And we have cupboards

Wow.  These babies are heavy.  Poor Dominic could barely hold up his end when bringing them into the house.  They are 4 foot wide and almost 6 tall.  I could not wait to put a basket on top.  My dark brown crocks/jugs or baskets will be displayed there.  Shelves for crocks or baskets to hold items will be made for between them beneath the window so the entire wall be utilitarian.

Lots of storage inside. They will be attached to the wall, painted the same white with more black hardware.  He doesn't have the shelves made yet and that's OK.  Lots of work on my part to ready them for paint. 

The interior is finished but there are door details that need some attention and sanding.  Dom is not used to my style and makes beautiful kitchens, but they are overlay profiled doors, all finished and ready for installation.  He didn't even know what an H hinge is and has never done inset or plank doors.  I'm not complaining because at least he was willing to come out and doesn't turn down jobs.  These details don't detract from the strength and utility of the cupboards.

As for the antique sampler, if anyone held a copyright it would have been the stitcher for the design she created, which expires at death + a number of years and can be transferred to others.  If it's a family heirloom and the rights were passed to them, that's different.  But if it's not your work, you cannot apply for a copyright.  Technically, the chart I created for the pony wallet could have been sold by me.  The wallet owner cannot hold a copyright on the antique, but requested I do not sell the chart so I obliged.  Many pieces do not identify the creator or the location.  If you tangibly work out a pattern for a piece, such can be copyrighted as yours, but not the actual piece.  The image you prepare or photos you take of anything are products of your work, are tangible, and can also be copyrighted if you choose.  Not reproducing, selling, profiting from what you are creating from something you have seen, and there is no way to determine the author or any applied copyright, I cannot see the harm.  But if you wanted to make several and sell them, who are you infringing upon?  You can't copy someone's photo, frame it, and sell it.  But they don't hold the rights to the subject in the photo unless it is from their hands.  And needlework is a different medium than a copyrighted photo, which opens up a new discussion.  Antique furniture pieces, quilts, weavings, have all been reproduced and many to be sold.  The laws are extensive and defined, but also confusing and sometimes impossible to verify when old pieces are involved.  An interesting article on patterns (relating to clothing) is here.  And I'm assuming that quilting, furniture, and other items may be considered in the same category.  An example from the site....

Here, while the drawing of the dress may be considered a creative expression of the author and therefore eligible for copyright protection, the pattern instructions and any dress made from the pattern would not be protected by copyright.

How confusing is that????  I've checked many sites and Googled until the cats came home, there is a lot of info out there.  Sellers may post a legal notice about their work and when you agree to their terms and conditions of usage, that is binding.

 

I need to go play with the paint again or Mark is going to the store and coming home with basic white.  Poor guy has been living with painted plywood pieces at every angle for a loooooooong time.

 

Thanks for visiting!

 

****************************

 

Cloudy with a chance of rain

Really?  Here we go again!  Are you overheated and dried up or waterlogged and chilly?  Is there anyone in between?

This little fence sitter looks like she's guarding the yard...

 

 

 but obviously not.  Finally had some blooms on the geraniums and the sweet potato vines (which love water) were enormous.  Hmph.  Is that how you spell that sound you make while blowing air out like a snorting deer?  Since I was feeding the 4 mama deer all afternoon in the backyard, this must have been the fawns sneaking around the front.  The little buggers are running and playing all over the place.  Must have been in the garage too because the corn is everywhere, and these flowers were at the garage door. 

 

 

My stitching has been frustrating.  I am a stitcher of letters.  Flowers and motifs that require constant chart checking make me nuts.  I am a sloppy stitcher, carry over threads too far, and go up down and sideways.   Therefore, the corners of the crosses are pulled one way or another depending on the wrong turn my needle is taking.  Adding another color is a crap shoot because it may split that stretched corner thread, go beneath it, over it, any way it can to get into that little hole.  Do I care?  No.  So sad.  I know I should but I don't.  Such  a relief that I don't like the fancy elegant samplers because they wouldn't be when I was done with them.  Just because I like reproduction or primitive style that is missing stitches, misaligned, misspaced, misbalanced, mismatched, misspelled, doesn't mean my stitches should be misshaped.  I made an effort this time to prevent that.  Didn't last very long but still doesn't look too bad. 

If I would have studied the chart before starting, I would have seen that the lightest color is in the large flower, not the one in the border flowers.  All that time wasted on changing to the 758 and it's not even in the flower.  Thought for sure it would be since it was with the red in the border. 

 

A few other things - I still can't figure out messaging and answering on Facebook.

 

If you ever want to search a blog to find a particular finish, recipe, or tip, use the search box at the top left of any Blogger blog.  It's word specific but still quicker for me to use.

 

And.... I didn't stitch that wallet.  Our favorite wallet gal Ann did. 

 

Remember the It Stays roll-on that glues your sling backs and keeps your straps in place?  I bought a new bottle and loaned it to Carole since her split neck blouse kept drooping.  Worked great but she can't remember where she put it.  Don't you hate when that happens?

 

Hope your week is going well. 

 

Thanks for visiting.

 

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

 

Ann's wallets

Hi everyone.  I mentioned before about showcasing a few pieces of Ann Madges' work.  Here's a little about her in her words.  " I love stitching (belong to EGA, Dayton and Cincinnati Chapters and to the Queen City Sampler Guild) and have samplers on many walls. Since I have little wall space left, I have now become obsessed with doing smaller 17th18th century reproduction pieces such as pinballs and men's wallets."  I asked to see her work, she obliged, and I think they are well worth viewing.  Beautifully stitched and finished!  You can find Ann on Pinterest here, and check out her boards for a variety of needle arts. 

The first one is Casper Yeakel which is a kit from The Essamplaire here, stitched on 30 count with Appleton wool, linen lining and tape.

 

 

 

The next one is from The Scarlet Letter, Ann Davis 1762 found here, which Ann stitched on linen with linen lining, DMC threads, and wool tape.

 

 

 

This is available from Colonial Williamsburg, Ezekiel Teel's Pocketbook kit, here.  Irish stitch on 27 count using Appleton wool, linen lining, and wool tape.

 

 

This is from Susan Siegler's book Needlework Patterns from the Metropolitan Museum of Art.  Paternayan wool on 32 count in tent stitch with wool lining and binding.

 

 

Next is Scarlet Letter's the Gardner Pocketbook of 1755, found here.  Done in cross stitch and eyelet on 35 count, wool lining and binding.

 

 

The last is also from The Scarlet Letter, E.S. Pocketbook here, Irish stitch with Appleton crewel wool, lined with silk, edged in wool tape.

 

Ann inserts a photo of the original piece inside each wallet, and told her family that each can choose a wallet as a remembrance when she is gone.  But she's not giving them up until then!  Aren't they treasures?  What a collection to display.

Thank you for sharing Ann!

I hope you all enjoyed the show!