Who wants the cap?

UPDATE - to order, please go to this post for information.

http://samplers-and-santas.blogspot.com/2016/04/holy-caps.html

 

 

Greetings folks.  The cap order (like mine) has come in.  It was a special order for a customer who bought more than expected and there were only a few left, which I bought.  She will order again and would like to know how many of you are interested so she orders enough.  The price is $3.35 for a set of 4 + $3.35 shipping (flat rate regardless of amount purchased), total of $6.70 with US shipping for four caps.  Additional quantities of $3.35 for four.  Two weeks for the order to come in.  Please leave the number of SETS you would like in comments so I can let her know.  You will order from her, not me, when they come in and I will list her link for you.  So if you want 4 caps, request ONE set, if you want 12, request THREE sets.  Please leave what you would like in the comments if you are interested.

 

After the malarkey

Well that was embarrassing.  Watermelon head or not, that was certainly a menomoment, worthy of being added to the list of  "what the hell was that?".  It's the end of it, that's what it is.  I will find my method that works or continue avoiding those projects.  Amen.

 

Being productive with a needle has not been happening but will today now that the floss colors are chosen.  I did get the boxes done for May and this prototype for June.  The remaining sales will be this 4x6 tall oval until my supply is gone.  Can't get this size any longer and the others are always low stock, some have peeling/bubbling paper.


 

 

My cousin in MN sent me a photo of her and her sister (the one with FT dementia in a facility) and it was so very upsetting.  This vibrant world traveler only 3 years older than I am.  Her once shining eyes are empty, her strong frame diminished to a slump, her beautiful face I could no longer recognize, her intelligent speech now unintelligible.  I wasn't expecting such a rapid and drastic deterioration.

 

Enjoy your day.

For 30 minutes, be alone in silence, breathe deeply, stretch your body, observe your surroundings, touch everything, embrace your sadness, feel your pain, cry to cleanse, let it go, smile at the sky, be stunned by the vastness, open your heart, and thank God for being able.

 

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Cancel the epiphany

 

I'm totally wrong.  The first half does indeed make a difference.  Here's what the first half switched would do to the back loop if I followed the TOP/top method.  The left side is the correct direction from the instructions, and the right side would be changing the direction of the first half of the cross.  Vertical linen thread is on top, but top to bottom second half cross is incorrect making the back loop in the wrong place and allowing the thread to slip and disappear.

And here's what would happen if another stitch was beneath.  The second half would need to be from top to bottom even though the vertical thread was on the bottom, so that top/top bottom/bottom nonsense was way off.  Following my method would again not create the loop in the right position to prevent disappearing threads. 

 

Looking at the examples, I see that the back loop must be running the same direction as the top linen thread in the intersection.  So I would move horizontal or vertical to come up for the second half of the cross, depending on the top linen thread.  Across if the thread is horizontal, up and down if it is running vertical, regardless of the first half direction.  I think this may be correct.   Am I right this time????

 

I am definitely using Barbara's method so maybe I should just give up trying to learn this.  I'm having enough trouble with wanting to stitch.  Many of my older pieces had over one and I don't remember it being such a hassle!!  When I can't grasp something so simple, it really aggravates me.  But I am letting go!

 

Sorry for the malarkey.

 

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The over one epiphany

was a bunch of nonsense so I removed this post's content,  just in case someone thought it made sense and would give it a try.

It basically was incorrectly thinking that the vertical thread in the intersection of the stitch, would determine the second half of the cross.  If the vertical thread was on top, the second half would go from top to bottom, and if the vertical thread was on the bottom of the intersection, the second half would go from bottom to top.  Wrong!  So rather than create a problem for someone, I decided to remove it.

 

 

Barbara's over one

When I posted about how I detest stitching over one and the problems I had with the thread disappearing, Barbara (in England) was nice enough to offer her help.  I've visited all the instructional links about thread directions and methods to prevent that but, to my dismay, the first half of the stitch continued to disappear or stitches would be very uneven.  This is Barbara's method.

 

She uses a loose, lightweight piece of "muslin" tacked to the back of the over one section, or held in place if using a hoop.  From what I've researched online, what is called muslin overseas, is equivalent to muslin gauze in the US.  I am familiar with the tightly woven lightweight fabric.  From what she pictured and explained, her muslin is loosely woven like a bandage, more like a gauze.  I have a very old roll of fine cotton gauze banding which I could use and I also may try a piece of tulle after rinsing to remove the stiffness.

Stitching through a backing would help to keep the floss from slipping behind the linen threads.  Would it prevent it completely and allow the stitcher to use their regular method instead of a cross pattern specifically for over one?  In this example, Barbara had a small section of over one so she just pinned a piece of gauze over that area, which she said could also be tacked into place.  With a hoop/frame, you could use a large piece of gauze secured with the linen and then cut away the excess after stitching that area.

 

Here's the front showing the completed over one section (a Jeannette Douglas design). 

 Barbara said she uses the backing for smalls and ornaments because she feels the stitches lie better.  I would think this would help a great deal with tension issues and give a little body and stability to smalls and lightweight linens.

 

I wondered if products like the stabilizers used in embroidery would work, but anything that is fused may be difficult to get a needle through because of the glue involved. 

 

Barbara said she can't claim credit for this method because it is commonly used and frequently taught in England.  I'm so glad she offered her help because I've never heard of this tip and it may be the answer to my trouble. 

 

This framed beauty is one of Barbara's large samplers, another superb class project from Ellen Chester.

 

So there you have it!  Have any of you used this trick?  Did it make a difference in how easily you could stitch the over one areas?  I have many rejected charts because of over one, maybe that will change now.
 

Thank you very much Barbara!!  I love getting advice and tips from advanced stitchers like you and appreciate you sharing your expertise.

Have a great weekend! 

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Getting closer

How are you?  Good I hope.  We're half way through April already!  Can't believe how fast time goes.

 

Just wanted to show my dye job for Mary Spinney.  This linen was a brownish natural and marked as 28, but after several dye and dry sessions, it looks like it shrunk to a 30.  Either way, it's a little more substantial than the original and I don't have to remove stitching, just start pulling threads.  They aren't marked with color numbers on the chart since it was a kit, just the color name so I will have to choose pastels according to the description.  I hope once that's done I won't find another excuse to delay the start. 

The linen is an odd green and I'm surprised I matched it.  It's still slightly damp in the photos and will dry a little lighter, but slightly darker than the shiny silky linen from the kit.  Any bets whether I use it or change to the dark blue?

 

 I was looking at a few tutorials for various sewing bags, and although functional and really pretty, I think I will stick with these for storing kitted projects.  I like being able to see through the portfolio instead of having to remember the contents.  Makes it easier to browse but once pulled and started, I prefer a canvas/fabric bag.

 

I get the sliding top heavy envelopes and the flap with closure at Staples, the other is from Pat Catan's art department. 

It's large and has an outside clear pocket for the chart and the supplies can be in the zippered part.  I have a bunch of the smaller ones, perfect for small projects and charts.  Wonder if I will get the mojo back to ever stitch them!

 

 

I will be recouping at home for a few days and get the photos of Barbara's over one method for a weekend post.

 

I'll be on an antibiotic for a week after the procedure and it should take care of the cat scratch too.  He'll check it on follow-up.  Thanks for your concern and advice!

 

Have a wonderful day.

Thanks for visiting.

 

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